Hotel Whitcomb

Hotel Whitcomb: You can't fight city hall (though some people try), but you can sleep there. Officially opened in 1916, this stately hotel at Eighth and Market streets was Mayor "Sunny Jim" Rolph's headquarters for several years after the great quake. Today, the neighborhood is still a bit of a disaster area, but inside, time stands still very pleasantly, with vintage flourishes and last century prices. Pack your Fast Pass, though: This isn't a cocooning spot so much as a comfy launch pad into city life.

Comfort zone

An '80s restoration helped the Whitcomb get its elegant Edwardian mojo back. The rooms are still small, but they boast 11-foot ceilings, mahogany furniture and tasteful (if you can tolerate some flowers) upholstery and bedcovers. Antique prints of Market Street and a small desk remind you why you're here: to go play outside, silly. For coffee, you'll have to head to the lobby or order room service.

Bath and beyond

The hotel's age shows most here, with a tankless toilet, small sink and no counter space - just lots of small white tiles. Surprisingly, the Martex bath towels were of good quality; ditto the Judith Jackson Spa citrus-y bath amenities. A crisp white shower curtain with see-through panel spruced up the shallow tub.

Grounds for approval

Those who couldn't care less about Austrian crystal chandeliers, Art Nouveau stained glass and other charming details in the high-ceilinged lobby can hang in the Starbucks. Florinda's Market Street Grill and the Tavern Piano Bar, however, offer better places to unwind and reasonably priced fare. The grill also serves breakfast and provides efficient room service, 6:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m. Other ground-floor sites: an Internet cafe, where $5 gets you 20 minutes on a handful of PCs and a printer; a concierge desk; and a small gift shop. A compact but clean fitness center with five cardio machines, a weight system, towels and water is on the mezzanine, open 6 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Geared up

Older model hotel phone and easy-to-use (yay!) clock radio. Flat-screen (but not flat-panel) 25-inch TV with basic cable, HBO and pay-per-view flicks. Free in-room Wi-Fi and dataport.

In the vicinity

Besides the check-cashing places and an adult theater where you can, ahem, "Touch the magic"? Try the whole city, at least those destinations reachable by Muni's F Line (including the Castro and Fisherman's Wharf), buses and trains or BART, all of which have a stop right outside.

Good to know

Valet parking is $28 plus tax - almost half of what downtown hotels charge - but you're still better off using BART or Muni. Some rooms overlook Market Street; quieter rooms are toward the back, parallel to Eighth Street. Fun fact: Remnants of the city's old jail cells remain in the basement, and the mayor's office became the hotel's administration offices. Pop into the two-room, mezzanine-level "Hall of History" for more on the Whitcomb's many incarnations.

Highs and lows

The bare bathroom needs work, and a slight tobacco smell (perhaps dating back to Sunny Jim himself) pervaded my room. But the friendly staff, the respectable furnishings and fine dining choices almost made me rethink the no-cocooning idea.

Vitals: 1231 Market St. (at Eighth Street), S.F. (415) 626-8000. www.hotelwhitcomb.com. 460 rooms (10 wheelchair accessible). Standard rates $99 to $189; online rates vary, as low as $79 for a petite queen and $239 for a double ($289 for a suite). Theater, shopping, romance and other packages available; some details online, but must book by phone.

- Jeanne Cooper, 96Hours@sfchronicle.com

This article appeared on page G - 25 of the San Francisco Chronicle